Another day...another dollar

Sunday. My back was starting to feel better, but in an effort to avoid further damage (since I've yet to confirm that sour candy is proven to be effective), i opted to postpone my sun exposure one more day. Which meant another day here without surfing. Or did it?
Found a loophole. It may have been a little unorthodox, but that's generally the nature of loopholes. This surfing involved a board and a body of water. Standard. The difference was this water was not controlled by the moon, contained less Na and more Cl, mostly shaded by trees, and lacking in the wave department. For those of you who still haven't figured it out, I'm talking about a pool.

Yep. Supposed I might as well spend some time getting furthered acquainted with my board, warm my arms up with some paddling, and do some balance excercises. Better than nothing. Plus it's too hot to not be in some kind of water.

Monday. The beginning of the work week. There were waves to be ridden. No more calling in sick. I've got responsibilites here. My job is to surf. This time I was going to do things right.

Sunscreen. Check. Wax. Check. Committment to shred. Check.

My dad, brother and I all headed out together. This was Mike's second session of the day. I got some great pics of him shredding it up earlier. The waves seemed a lot less ominous than the last time I was out...at least from shore. I was pretty confident that this attempt would yield success. But, success is all relative. My definition today was that I at least stand up. Also relative. I would be happy with anything lasting a second or longer. Something that, to the untrained eye, might just appear to be another wipeout, but that, with a slow motion review, would reveal my triumph. Both feet on the board and slight vertical action.

It felt good to paddle out. Helps that the water is 80 degrees, but it was also not super strenuous today. Made it out easily and posted up on my board waiting for my wave. I knew that I wasn't in the best spot, but didn't want to position myself too close to the skilled surfers. While I passed the time, I reminded myself of the few tips my bro and dad had given me.

1. Don't place yourself perpindicular with the wave...angle yourself a little
2. Pay attention to the waves you're taking. Wait for the right ones.
3. Don't paddle so far ahead of the wave that it starts to break before you catch it
4. Stand up as soon as you feel it start to take you

Good tips, but I probably over-thought the first wave. Okay, here comes a wave. It's breaking left. Angle myself. Start paddling. Jump up as soon as you feel it take you.
I stood up. Well..at least my low standard for standing. But, it did not last long. I stood up too soon this time and the wave was much steeper than I anticipated. It didn't take long for me to realize I was about to be owned. My board went straight down and my body went every direction possible before landing hard on the side of the board. Dead butt. The good news is that the wax definitely made a difference, and although I got a little roughed up, at least I had already accomplished my goal for the day. It could only be uphill from there.

Back on the board and back in the line-up. Well...not exactly a line-up. Just my dad and me. These waves are deceiving. They don't look too big, but they end up being so freaking steep. Recipe for being rocked. For the next hour or so, I continued to attempt a ride. I stood up, Becky style, a handful more times, and took many more beatings before calling it a day. But I walked out of the waves with my head and board held high (the latter because my arms are just a little too short to really carry my board by my side...your arm span is supposed to be the same distance as your height..mine is 2 inches shorter). Goal accomplished for the day.

Unfortunately, on the way to shore, I got sucked into a conversation (if you can call it that) with a drunk Salvadorian man. He was most likely high as well, but alcohol was the only substance I could confirm without a doubt. From the stench of his breath, I'm certain he could've disinfected a hospital. He tried to convey to me, through large dramatic hand movements, which further threw off his balance, that the waves were not very good right now. And that they are beautiful in March. That actually made me feel a little better about my performance. I'm okay with letting the waves be my scapegoat. Then he proceeded to talk about turtles...at least I think that was his next tangent. I was distracted wondering how good an idea it was for him to be swimming in his state. I considered asking him, but remembered I was trying to remove myself from this conversation and didn't want to introduce a whole new topic for discussion.

On shore, John and Eliana were testing out their new little surfboards (which are really boogie boards) in the small waves. They were an early Christmas present. It's hard to believe it's December and almost Christmas in this setting. Although we do have a Christmas tree and John to constantly remind us, "Christmas is coming! It's going to snow for Christmas!" We make an effort to correct him, but he won't have any of it. "Yes it is!" I'm sorry, John...you're in for some disappointment.

He is also continually picking up all the presents under the tree and examing them, anxiously awaiting the day he can open them. When questioned about this obsession, he claims he's "feeling them up"...to which I can't help but respond with a "that's what she said" joke or some other appropriately inappropriate comment.

And Eliana has been going around finding things to wrap for Christmas. The other night she asked if I wanted to know a secret. A secret? Of course! She whispered in my ear that she is giving Grandma and Grandpa money. Money? I asked her where she got the money, and she whispered that she stole it from Daddy. Apparently she operates under the idea that the end justifies the means. Turns out it is only a quarter each, but still...I had to give her a lecture on theft. Pretty excited to see what I got for Christmas. Let's hope it's the book I'm missing.