The Train is Leaving the Station

...CONTINUED

We made our way through the sea of creepers to a little hole in the wall that serves up Claudia's favorite pupusas. Up until this point I'd only had bean and cheese pupusas, despite being aware that they were also made with fish and other meat. On the bus, Claudia suggested that I have one with fish...but at this point, as we were passing buckets and buckets of raw pungent fish being sold on the side of the street, in conditions that might have caused the U.S. Health Department inspectors to shat themselves in disgust...a fish pupusa was sounding less than appetizing. But...when in Rome..."Yes? Please go on."

It tasted like the street smelled...not a fan. Luckily I had ordered a frijole y queso pupusa as well...which was used as my chaser.

After pupusas, we headed into the heart of the market...basically these enclosed alleyways that are lined with makeshift stalls for different vendors. It's the most hodgepodge collection of stores selling all sorts of things. And then you have the freelance salesmen peddling single items...razor blades, shampoo, gum, and my favorite...white-out pens. Doesn't seem like there would be much demand, but if anyone could sell it, this lady could...she had quite the spiel. I'm not sure how it translated, but it rhymed and sounded great in Spanish.

By now my stomach was still not totally settled from the pupusas and so I had to concentrate on keeping my food down while I watched Claudia buy questionable raw cow parts, from a stand decorated with raw meat, located in one of the hot stalls. Definitely more subpar conditions under U.S. standards. The fish on the street were nothing compared to this. Next we went to the cheese stall where we were handed samples of what I could tell was the staple salty cheese they eat here. I'm really not a fan, but again, so as not to offend, I rallied my stomach and forced it down.

We went up and down the walkways picking up meat here, cantaloupe there, candy on the corner, etc. It was fun going with a local and seeing what their typical shopping experience is like. Relationships have been formed with each vendor that they choose to buy from and they become loyal patrons and friends over time. The lady she bought her tomatoes and onions from gave her a Christmas present for being a loyal customer. Vons...where were you on that one?? After Claudia had all her groceries and I secured a headband for Eliana, we were back on another bus and ready to head back to the beach. This bus driver happened to be her mom's boyfriend, so we got a free ride.

The ride home was significantly more crowded. Every seat was full and the aisle was completely packed with people standing. Now the bus had to maneuver back through the crazy streets again...total chaos. Our bus tried to pass another bus and ended up running over one of the stands, causing some commotion...although, I'm sure it's common. Meanwhile, as we are inching our way towards the highway (the total time it took to go 2 blocks was about 20 minutes), some more of the freelance peddlers would enter the front of the bus and force their way down the aisle selling their respective products, and then exit through the back emergency exit door. I'd say the biggest sellers were the water bags. Imagine the temperature with all that body heat. I've mentioned before that everything is packaged in bags here...including water. These probably hold 8 ounces and resemble an unfrozen ice pack. You just tear off the corner with your teeth and drink from the hole. And then...when you're done, apparently what you do is throw it out the bus window...littering fines don't exist.

Once back in El Zonte, Claudia got her kids and I got Eliana, John and the neighbor kids and we headed down to the beach for some boogie boarding and swimming. Claudia has a little boy who is 8 and a girl who is 6. At the beach, I met another young mom and her 5-year-old daughter who all the kids new from school. I'd say that the average age that women here start having kids is 16 or 17. Every girl I've met so far is younger than me and has at least one child. Claudia is only 25. Our new tutor, Cari, is 23, isn't married and has no kids. She said that in this country, women like her are told, "the train is leaving the station." If that's the case, the train is long gone at my age. The sad thing is that most of the kids grow up without dads. In the same way that all the moms I've met are young, all of them have broken/non-existent relationships with the fathers.

I've really enjoyed getting to know some more locals and practicing my Spanish with them. I can't believe I only have one week left. Claudia wants to go to Libertad again, so if it actually works out, I'm going to bring my camera to capture some of the great sights. Snipe that.

PS: I was going to finish this blog tomorrow...but I got attacked by bugs again tonight and now I can't sleep. One bit me right on the lip...looks like I've had my lips pumped with collagen...but only on one side.